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Paranoid about invasion, he not only ordered the construction of the bunkers, but made it illegal for Albanians to own maps of the country, or to listen to the BBC World Service, a crime punishable by eight years in jail. Past and future didn't exist, and for forty years or so it was left in self-imposed isolation.
Changing its name to Dyrrachium, and later Durrs, it became one of the main supply ports for the Romans' eastern empire, and, interestingly, a hotbed of Venus worship.
There's little evidence of any hotbeds but Durrs does have the remains of Roman baths and an amphitheatre, which is the largest of its kind in the Balkans.
Today the area around the floor of the amphitheatre is green and swampy and all that emerges from the tunnel is the sound of hundreds of frogs croaking.
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